Thelonious Monkfish does have a sure-handed assortment of classic and modern sushi, and competent fusion food, with the all-important microbrews and sakes. Furthermore, the place isn't open ''Round Midnight' and there's no 'Blue Monk,' but, moving up a couple Miles, 'So What?' There's no monkfish on the menu, and the 'Mood Indigo Maki' ($10.95) doesn't even have a single indigo ingredient (or even bluefish) to it. The chef's not deaf, and Ginger XO (more name game, strains the brain, Jane) wants to make 'jazz for the palate because we love to jam on Asian culinary themes.' The man with the plan is a Jamme Chantler (not even Thelonious as a middle name), and the jammin' platters spun in my dinner era lacked a certain key pianist. The name bit flipped all the cats and kitties and the squares and the cubes, but it ends up jive don't jibe with the vibe. HIGH NOTE There's no monkfish on the menu, but plenty of winning sushi - both classic and modern